Starter rebuild

IMHO these Bosch starters do not need any grease. There are brass bushings for all the main axle contacts so the most you can do is clean all surfaces well (no grease), apply oil/ or moly/graphite lube liberally and put it back together clean. Pay attention not risk getting any lube in the clutch of the driver/ bindex part of the starter. In retrospect I would say ALWAYS CHANGE THE DRIVER/ BINDEX WHEN YOU REBUILD. Not hard to get but hard to find.

New driver or the bindex was: $29Can+tx.
New Brazilian solenoid for $23 wiped of excess oil/ grease and dressed with moly/graphite. Bosch was $80+ and would take weeks ....so I'm told. I bought the real Bosch torx bolts for the solenoid and replaced the cheap Phillips that nearly mangled before coming out (torch, impact, hammer.)

The shaft of the starter was jammed by particle imbedded grease... very difficult to move by hand even (with no solenoid brush). I cleaned the whole thing with carb cleaner and a toothbrush.... paying special attention to the spiral splines.

It is not easy but do not trust this starter rebuilding work to anybody but the most intrepid shop. That starter I just overhauled was rebuilt by a place in Riviere-de-Loup (wolf river) that specialized in starters and alternators. Not to sound too biter but they were/ are cons..... charged way too much money and didn't do anything but put grease throughout the starter.... not a new solenoid not even new brushes, maybe they turned the com. Do it yourself or order from Bocsh. So watch out!

Starter coil rewired

I opened my starter that was "rebuilt" 15 months ago because I was having trouble with the solenoid and found rotten main wires. So I crimped and soldered new ones on. Here is what I did.





Tip: don't try this with a torch or an iron less powerfull than 2-300 watts. The tourch will turn it blue and prevent the solder from sticking and the less powerfull iron will take too long to heat and melt the insulation of the coils. I used silver solder and steel crimps but it is not really necessary just use tin/ lead and tie the joint tight with wire before soldering.

IP pressure tester

This tester was made for $14 of parts from the hardware store, my old N/A IP's out bolt (same bolt), a nut that matches the thread of what ever plumbing connection you want.

But don't try this with guage shown 30psi is not enough (all I had). I borrowed a 150psi from a friend to do the test.